folkloric decorations

Regional types of folkloric costumes 3


Posted on 2019-04-05    Category Culture

THE WOMEN`S SHIRT is the only case of the blouse removed from our popular port and, depending on this particularity, there are essential differentiations in the cutting and in its structuring.

THE WOMEN`S SHIRT is the only case of the blouse removed from our popular port and, depending on this particularity, there are essential differentiations in the cutting and in its structuring.

By its structure, the Maramures shirt is framed in the straight shirt type, with the sleeves attached to the shoulder, composed of the following elements: the front chest and the back chest, each of which is an entire width of the canvas sheet, cut in the total length of the shirt, the back chest being longer and taller with two fingers, given that at seven shirt it is slightly more unobtrusive. These two pieces of cloth are widened to the top edge both front and back, in the right, horizontal line, of the neckline, comprising only the middle portion of the chest. The cheeks are caught by the cheeks, two other cloth strips (but only ¼ of the width of the cloth), which are joined to the breast of the breast, stretch from one side to the other, passing over their shoulders and lowering their backs downwards unite with your chest back. The plastic name of "riders" shows that this long strip of canvas passes over the shoulders, without interruption and without any stitching. So the riders dressing the shoulders also costed the side edges of the neckline and thus created a square open around the neck of the woman.

The sleeve, also made in straight sheets, consists of 1 ½ sheets of cloth, being called the half-sheet of the sheet that extends the sleeve to the bottom part below. She is wrinkled by her shoulder and trapped by a rider, forming from its length a small volan, known as bezer to the more recent shirts that is a specific element of the Transylvanian shirt. The canvas sheets of the shirt are united with a specific stitch, locally stitch, "eye", "ruptured", "waxed", "chopped", etc. made with hemp or yellow cotton.

The ornamentation of the shirt is made by stitching. The ornament chosen at war is almost nonexistent in the Maramures shirt. A general note of the ornamentation system is the linear disposition of the decor, in the form of narrow strips either on the chest or on the shoulders. The women's shirt that is blown on the square, both on the front and back pipettes, has a straight canvas strip called the "pogmata" in front and the "pogmata" back that delimits and supports the chests of the chest. This "pogmata" or guleras, is always ornamented by stitching for small, geometric motifs of vegetal styles in polychrome color.

On the shoulder, the ornament is arranged across on the horseshoe, which is a bay of approx. 2-3 cm wide, located perpendicular from the front, from the level of the sublayer, over the shoulder, towards the back, where it ends at the same level. The stitch that is specific to this ornament is the draw point or trace, the same as that of the bezel shirt, except that here it is worked on the stretched canvas (so sewn on the woven fabric) as opposed to the carriage of the moths that is worked on the edges edge.

The motifs made by the carriage are geometric, having a rich and varied repertoire, specific to Maramures, as well as the names of rouge, raffles, stars, hooks, etcetera. The trace coloring follows a constant order: the background is currently black, and the motifs are polychrome.

In conclusion, the linear ornamentation of the Maramures women's shirt is placed either horizontally or vertically, in the form of narrow strips, which are sewn in points and with motifs specific to the popular costume here.

Man shirt.

As the principle behind the cutting system, the men's shirt from Maramures enters the typology of traditional straight shirts in the male port to the Romans. The characteristic feature is the short size, we could say weirdly short, given that the length of the old Sapanta shirts did not exceed the waist, but often leave the bare chest visible above the belt. This archaic shirt was cut from a sheet of canvas that passed right over the shoulder to the back. At the mouth, the shirt had a cleft in front and is tied to cheutore, and it does not have a collar. Beneath the arm, the shirt widens with ¼ called toldel. The sleeve, made up of a canvas sheet, is attached to the right side of the shirt (front and back), the collar is wide without a collar. A peculiarity of the men's shirts is the lining of the hemp on the top of the stones to assure resistance . The shirt sheets are joined by the stitch called the ruptured stitch point and the women's skirt stitch point

 The variety of clothes above, especially those of the dim, is higher in Transylvania. The color of the funds differs, the decoration techniques, the decorative aspect, the proportions and even the proportions bye.

The black-haired black-haired suman seamstress in Reghin and Mures is distinguished from the one with applications on colored and tassels, arranged on black or gray background, preferred in Salaj and Cluj, differentiated by the large "Szurul", massive Hungarian costume from Cluj.

THE COSTUME OF THE HUNGARIANS, SAXONS AND SZEKlERS

The port of the Transylvanian nations is made more of industrial materials and its chromatic gamut has bold combinations of contrasting and vivid white, red, berry and black tones. The cut and the structure approach few parts of the Romanian port, the assembly line approaching rather of the city costumes.

Among the components of the male port, the shirt and vest keep the ornaments and the vivid chroma of the szur.

The women's costume is distinguished by the ornamental richness of the detail. Ile, with the ornamentation technique based on the consistency of the "iraszos" point, highlighted by the chromatic intensity: bright red, blue, black. The special note of the ensemble is supported by the bead crown "parta", embellished with ribbons of ribbons and the ample "bogs"

Apron skirt applied on the bottom of the legs a band of orange or red characters, generally richly ornamented with floral-vegetable stitches. Trascau coats are also included, including both men's and women's costumes, garnished with red fox fur and embellished with beautiful embroidery.

Szekler Costume: The male was based on tiny pieces or well-fitting white figures, embellished with black eyewear and brandenburgs.

The women's costume is assembled from the skirt created in a striped fabric, with a beautiful chromatic rhythm, with a beautiful white and illicit black shirt or other dark colors. Of the complementary pieces, the "cepsul", a bonnet with a wide margin, wide, embossed and well-groomed, mostly made of black lace, completes the dress ensemble.

The costumes of the Saxons, from Brasov and Bistrita Nasaud. They also show features that highlight them from the Romanian folk port of the repsective areas. As a whole, Saxon outfits differ a lot from the parts component and the morphological structure. Many pieces of the Saxon port are cut to patterns and industrial materials, which greatly change the character of the line.

The women's costume has among the component parts the "bortenul", the fine embroidery breastplate and the stunted models as they were made in the Bistrita hosiery center, which many times was replaced with the same ladies of the same quality with the skirt, and richly embellished with many rows of ribbons that alternate with multicolored floral motifs embroidered with wool or silk. A special note draws off the women's summer, holiday party, entirely made of white linen, lace, embroidery or tulle. Well-adjusted in the waist, thanks to many skirts and all the good looks, it releases the lace line.

The man's costume has an elegant line, highlighted by the cut-out of dark or white cloths.

 

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saxons
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