TYPES OF POPULAR COSTUMES IN MOLDOVA
Among the historical provinces, it seems that Moldova has the greatest stylistic unity of the areas, highlighted in women's costume, with photo and stergar, as the headdress of the head, and the male, with the shirt to the knee, with very strong, as well as in the chromatic and ornamental structural unit of the overalls, especially of the candles. In the space of Moldova, the woman's shirt has two basic yarns: the shirts and the right ones, as well as the variants with local features
Until now, the shape of the collarless shirt has been preserved, wrinkled around the neck by a bracelet, where the name of this shirt with birch or birch, but also the original shape that has the upper, separately cut. On the immeasurable white fabric, the rhythmic succession of shapes and colors is subject to the same decorative patterns imposed by an old tradition and encountered in other regions of Romania (embroidery, dressing, trimming, vertical or oblique bending.
The geometric decorative elements, associated with the avimorphic, anthropomorphic and vegetal ones, which are colored with flax, wool, silk, cotton, "stramatura", amplify the ornamental range. To delimit the compositional differences, gold and silver threads that require a special vibration are used outside the colored yarns and beads.
In the areas of Bacau and Vrancea, thanks to the special cut, the chircus shirt has the upper part of the shape of two triangles and the shoulders and the ends embroidered with metallic thread. At the same time with the "carpathian" shirt from Moldavia, she also knew the right shirt, having the shape of a tunic made not only of linen or cotton, but also of fine wool or borangic wool. The ornamental elements on the collar, on the chest, on the shoulders and on the outer end of the wool with the wool indigo dots, outbursts and later with "stramatura" (the fine bought and commercially painted) and with polychrome beads. Straight wool or borangic shirts are trimmed on all surface with strips and motifs.
Another important part of the female port is the "catnip", which has a continuous evolution from the original shape lacking decorative elements, to the one cooked on two horizontal parts of a red or dark red band, framed by narrow colored stripes whose number, dimensions and the names differ from one village to another.
In the evolution of the decoration, the next stage is marked by polychrome stripes called age and gentle, vertically distributed at the width at the extremities of the cat, repeat from side by side, or in the "topaiala" placed in a string of stripes in which the composition is, in terms of distance and symmetrical coloring. The density of the stripes, the location, but also their color indicate the age, but also the belonging of a certain locality.
So : On Prut Valley - Botosani. There was a blue, two-striped, wide red stripe at the extremities and a red vetiver belt on the hips. On the skirt, horizontal fine strips crossed a red-painted portion. With the passage of time, simple stripes intertwine motifs made with dyed and dyed strait which is arranged in a linear manner on the pieces of the cat, parallel with the striped groups that increase the decorative effect of the piece.
On the Siret Valley, there is a variant of the "Pesteman" weaved on two sides on a blue background, with a very rich decor consisting of vertical strips of motifs arranged to the extremities and in strips arranged horizontally at the "gatar" (decorative heady disposed on skirt, but including the back of the piece from Racaciuni - Bacau)
The elegance of the Moldovan female costume is also given by the headgear. In Bucovina, the pieces that cover in all seasons the heads of the married women are known as "zabranic", the canvas, the headless towel. The ornamental composition consists of geometric motifs, rhombs and zigzags that cover the center of the fabric: they are enriched to the stylized stylized, stylized motifs with a thicker cotton yarn, the same color as the background and placed in the warp, the result is a decoration , tuna over tuna. To increase the plastic effect, it is often added to the extremities of this piece, fringes, often a bead of colored beads in red or dark blue.
Man's clothing, is recognized as distinctive elements round hoods with wide-turned bobs, black hats, lace-roasted lamb, turquoise and tall.
In this territory, the type of the right shirt, the "long-haired" long-sleeved shirt, with creases on the sides and flats under the arm, circled around the neck and with a siret and sleeves attached to the shoulder, wide , free or closed at the outer end with cuffs. The decoration, made from stylized geometric or vegetal motifs made of wool or fine cotton and fine cotton, is placed on the collar, chest, sleeves and jupa.
The holiday shirt is ornate, with small carnations and awning made in white cotton yarn. In the holiday costume, the most widespread is the shirt with the jupa generally carried by the flame. In winter, the "berneveci", also known as the cloves, are worn. For the summer, the tight trousers are made of woolen woolen fabric, not woven, woven on 4 stitches or from the straw and cotton warp.
In addition to the coats, worn with hoods and woolen socks, on feast days or on occasions, wearing high boots with buckles and boots made of vitreous, decorated at the top with floral elements. leather, common to women and men.
The tortoises are very widespread in the Romanian port of Moldova, the most successful being made in the center of Ghindaoani.
One of the important pieces for the folk costume in Bucovina was the quill with brau and poles. The elegance of the cut is the result of the jupiter flare, the gingasia and the refinement of the embroidery, placed on the chest and waist level in the form of a belt that surrounds it called "branas" giving the whole ensemble a sculptural aspect of great practical expression, amplified by the coat of fur, .
Another typical piece of the popular costume is the black wool or gray wool saracia, with a rich classical cut decorated with stylized geometric or vegetal elements, sewn on the collar, chest, sleeves, legs, jupiter and the angle of the side cuff.
As we descend to the south in the areas of Bacau, Roman, Vrancea, the women's costume develops the artistic side obviously especially through the décor of the fountains, which, besides the simple stripes, also start to appear in the other harmonious decorations. An apt note is formed by the old-fashioned women's costume from Vrancea, with the sleeved shirt, twisted.
The Neamt area is remarkable by elements surprisingly caught in the male port where the shirt is mostly worn with the bustle and which is complemented with a brown chest with fur coat and multicolored embroidery. In the case of the itar, it continues to keep tight and even grown.
The beautiful "busy" much loved valley in northern Moldavia, which sometimes shadowed the elegance of the marbles, is replaced in these areas by white or colored tulips with the embroidered gingas edges. Also in the same area were used "cataveicile" festooned with red fox linings; the coat of clothes that does not find the pair except in the "squat" of the plain areas in southern Muntenia and Oltenia.