TYPES OF POPULAR COSTUMES FROM OLTENIA
The harbor of the Oltenian districts revealed a special elegance. The women's costume in Oltenia falls in the typology of the wool-knit wool and the costume with two parts, with ornamental motifs arranged in a linear manner, arranged in one sense in horizontal registers or in vertical lines
Throughout Oltenia you can see the basic type of skirt decorated with simple stripes and patterns distributed in horizontal parallel rows with a right decoration on the skirt called the head and the threshold. The decorative motifs are geometric, phytomorphic, aquimorphic and anthropomorphic. The woolen skirt with its red hat, woven and molded, decorated with vertical stripes, with polychrome geometric motifs (rhombs, spirals, hooks), which alternate with delicate stripes in the whole composition gradually repeats itself.
The basic element - the shirt - is right in the Danube Plain and wrinkled at the neck in the rest of the area; regional differences are in the quality of the fabric and in the ornamental composition.
For neck sleeve sleeves sleeves there are three sewing registers: embroidery, embroidery and embroidered, straight or oblique motifs. Often the design of the sleeve is only reduced to embroidery. Sometimes, the ornamental field of the sleeve consists only of a compact stitch where geometric ornamental motifs are predominant. This stitch is distributed over the entire surface of the sleeve, with no free spaces, hence the name "embroidered shirt" (ornaments)
The sleeves are wide, loose, tightened in the lower end in embroidered cuffs, or finished with steering wheels. The decorative elements of the shirt are made either by needle embroidery or by fabrication and modeling in the war of tissues.
For head covering, women use "cloth". Typical in Oltenia, in the women's port is the costume with two cats, costume in use more in the summer, in winter the cats are replaced by valnic, the port piece that covers the foot. The Valnic costume is worn especially in the summer on different occasions. Also in Oltenia is the women's costume in which the scarf combines with the valian case in which the Valnik is placed in the back. The costume from Valcea is noted for the belimarin version of the white-embroidered cat. The layout of the decoration is restored in the decorative composition of the marbles. The Man's costume from Valcea develops a variant made of white dim.
The legs and white coats with white ornaments are proof of a special decorative reasoning The shirt is white all white embroidered. The only brightly colored spots are the knitters (braids and sticks) and the black hat.
The women's costume in Gorj with two cats presents a simple decoration in most cases, in compositions based on the beautiful harmony of the colors, but the decorative composition of the red valances develops with the motives vertically arranged all over their width. Valnicele is the piece of weight in the popular costume of the occasion.
The dominating top of Oltenia camshape is actually the "Carpathian" type, which does not exclude the beautiful "poncho" camesoaie typical of the male port. Carpets are generally embroidered in one color (red, ultramarine or olive, burgundy, pink) where only the crest is worked in a different color, always open if not the ordinary white.
The "poncho" type is a very harmonious polychromy.
In Gorj, developed on the old traditional harbor, in the form of a winter suit costume is known a very special variant of the "skeletal" costume appeared in the port of Oltenia at the end of the 19th century.
In the Romanati, Dolj and Mehedinti areas, dimie clothing is made with navy or black stitches, or washed out instead of white and red stitches specific to the area.
The men's clothes in the male port of this genre are resumed in the same manner and in the women's port.
The summer costume of the men's harbor in the Danube area is characterized by the re-casting of the long and wide shirts over the canvas, with beautiful ornaments on the edges. The shirts' decor is discreet, the white embroideries are placed on the edges of the legs, sleeves, neck and integrated with the beautiful quilts. As in Valcea, and in Gorj, the beads remain as beautiful as the true adornments of the men's costume.
The image of the Romanticized zone style would be incomplete if we omitted from the ensemble or heavyweight piece: the femoral coat they are "disabled", unique creation in the field of the coat but also representative of the decorative conception of the Romanian folk art.
Among the pieces that were made remarkable, we must mention also the valley with the bead of the Mehedinti costume, remarking by the monochroma of the background (red, black, burgundy or brown) and by the ornamentation. All ornamental motifs revolve around the foot, where silver silk stitch stitches are stuck in their hard and glossy point with floral and suggestive ornamentation, anthropomorphic styles rendered in a vast polychromy.
The ensemble of this area is part of a constant ratio of contrasts in two chromatic groups: on the one hand it is the white of the shirts, forming the background that allows to highlight the beautiful ornamental fields and the detachment of the colored components and on the other hand the group of saturated, , present in baskets, valleys, where the red and black shades predominate.
The pieces of the man's costume, functional and with aesthetic virtues have an ornamentation and a sober chroma in relation to the women's costume.
The shirt in Olt has two main bows: the old right holster and the flat jacket. Ornamentation with white is discreet only on the latest polychromia shirts are rare. In the case of the men's shirt, there are some peculiarities related to the quality of the cloth, which is thicker in the mountainous regions, where the hemp has persisted for a long time, and is finer in the Danube plain, and the size of the larger and longer cams in the south.
The "Cioarecii", made of white dim, in the north and in the cotton-dim, in the south, illustrates the difference from one area to the other in the cut (farther in the north and the southern algres) and in the ornamentation. In the north there are crowded horses with the black decoration of the belt and the black guys. The psecional guinea pigs of the plains are white and often lacking ornaments, with the exception of a man-made holiday suit undoubtedly worn in the villages, made of special white dime, decorated with cords and sirets, with fake pockets, "ghizde" with applications cloth.
The footwear consists of sandals, coats or raids of white dots. On holidays, the women wear white-socks made of siret.
The winter, the men's clothing ensemble, is complemented by illicit, cojoace and white-haired clothing, decorated with black vests and black stitch made in the house.
Due to the shape and methods of ornamentation, these pieces differ from one area to another, and the differences are visible between the south and the north, White-haired clothing, dressed in tight-knit lines, dressing in the mountain, is also distinguished in dresses in the shape of richly dressed dresses, dressed in white pleats that dress in the seas.
Always in the areas you can see, men, the mantle known in two forms: the sleeve with the sleeve and the cloak with the cape, the latter being made of white or black dim, is provided with a collar, which put on the head, catch the shape a capison.